Letter from Belfast

“Peace at last for Ulster” The London Independent proclaimed in its banner headline on April 11, 1998, following the signing of the Good Friday Agreement on the previous day. There can’t be a person living in Northern Ireland today who isn’t grateful for that peace and for all the tireless work by good men and women to bring it about. It was heartening to see how John Hume was honoured worldwide on his recent passing for his herculean efforts to coax the peace process into action. One should not forget either the Redemptorist, Fr Alex Reid, of Clonard Monastery in the Falls in Belfast, who was his great ally.  Twenty-two years on from the signing of the Good Friday agreement, how stands life for Catholics in Northern Ireland today? Allied to that, how has their commitment to the faith come through the last two decades or so? 

On the “Troubles Tourism Tours” offered by the Black Taxicabs in Belfast, it’s interesting to observe that Clonard always features as an important stop, since the peace process effectively began there. It also happens to be right beside an important flashpoint during the Troubles and the Peace Wall, still in place, is testament to that today. However, that should not mask the fact that large numbers of Catholics flock to the church for daily Mass and to the annual Clonard Novena. I am very impressed, since coming to live in Belfast over a year ago, at the great numbers attending daily Mass in parishes all over the city, even despite Covid 19. The truth is that Catholics in Northern Ireland are very committed to their faith and it shows.

There are many very positive things happening here right now, even during the pandemic. If anything, the pandemic has brought both communities here much closer together, as they face together a common enemy and the old divisions somehow seem less important. Sectarian issues seem to have faded into the background over the last eight months or so; if there are any positives regarding Covid 19, it seems to have had the effect of uniting the community, for now at least. However, even before the pandemic, it was heartening to see that there are several initiatives which aim to heal the old divisions. One of these is the Four Corners Festival, which precisely seeks to bring people together from the four corners of Belfast. 

 At one of the events in a Catholic Church in east Belfast, the Rev Harold Good, the Methodist minister who also played a key role in the peace process, recalled how some staunch Protestant ladies from the Shankill came to help clean up that very Catholic Church which was desecrated at the height of the Troubles. Rev Good recounted that when the generous ladies had done their work, the parish priest, very impressed by their intervention, came to thank them. One of the cleaning ladies, reviewing the now spick and span church, remarked:

“Father, will you allow me to say one thing? I have to say, Father, that your church now looks far more Protestant!” The annual Four Corners Festival aims to heal old wounds where people from all backgrounds share in music, poetry and prayer. Catholics and Protestants are learning to put old prejudices to one side and build a better life for the future together.

Another important issue which has united people from all communities in Northern Ireland has been that of abortion. Even though the Westminster Parliament has foisted a liberal abortion regime on the North, the pro-life movement here has not given up and has been very actively gearing itself up for a challenge. Prior to the pandemic, it was impressive to see the thousands gathered at Stormont in support of the pro-life cause and it was abundantly clear that this was an issue of equal concern on both sides of the community.

At the level of student life here in Belfast, the Catholic Chaplaincy at Queen’s University is an important hub of Catholicism; of course the Chaplaincy is open to people of all faiths and none.  The Chaplaincy is preparing to celebrate its fiftieth anniversary in 2022 and Fr Dominic McGrattan, the Catholic Chaplain, is very conscious that almost half of the student population of Queen’s declare their faith as being Catholic, so he has a large constituency on his doorstep.  He points out that the Chaplaincy has a very good working relationship with the university.

“We punch above our weight”, Fr Dominic observes. 

Among the students at the Chaplaincy, which is open to the public for Masses, it is wonderful to meet young people who are clearly proud of their faith and who are committed to passing it on to their friends in an open, attractive manner. Archbishop Eamon Martin, who spoke recently at the Mass at the Chaplaincy for the opening of the academic year, presented the example of the recently beatified Carlo Acutis as a great model for students, suggesting to them that “Carlo had a strong sense that every young person should use their unique gifts to change the world for the better.”

Ecumenism is alive and well in Belfast and, prior to the pandemic, my local parish, St Brigid’s, organised an Alpha Christian doctrine course in tandem with the local Fisherwick Presbyterian Church. I half expected that this might draw 15-20 people, but the eventual attendance was over eighty and over eleven weeks, I found myself mingling with a great group of Presbyterians and Catholics and many friendships were formed. Earlier this year, history was made in Belfast as Fr Tim Bartlett organised the first ecumenical Ash Wednesday service in Chapel Lane, city-centre Catholic church, with ministers from other faiths participating.

Except for a short period, churches in Northern Ireland have remained open right throughout the pandemic and even though heavy restrictions now have to be imposed again, there is no plan to close churches. Catholics have continued to attend Mass in big numbers, with exemplary observance of all the correct health procedures. It’s as if Catholics, who have endured very tough times in the practice of their faith in the past, now realise it is vital to prioritise this central aspect of their lives.

Mass attendance isn’t the only notable feature of life in Belfast during the pandemic. On a recent visit to St Paul’s Church on the Falls Road, I was greeted by two ladies on the steps as I emerged from the church. 

“You must have been to Confession”, remarked one of the stalwart pair, “you’re smiling so broadly!” “How right you are”, I was forced to admit.

Confession has been widely available throughout the lockdown, with all the procedures being rigorously observed by the committed Belfast clergy. It also tells you that Northern Catholics value the sacraments a lot.

Northern Ireland has come a long way since the dark days of the Troubles. It’s clear that the barriers are coming down and there will be no return to the old ways. I’m not suggesting for a moment that all is rosy in the garden, as of course there is still a great deal of hurt and anger on both sides. But overall, there are many very positive things happening in Northern Ireland today, even if they do not grab the headlines.

Let’s remember, of course, that St Patrick is buried in Downpatrick in Northern Ireland and it is generally accepted that it was in the North that he first set foot in Ireland. So maybe it’s no surprise that with the roots of the faith sown so deeply here, they would continue to bear fruit in the twenty-first century, despite the combined complications of the Troubles and a worldwide pandemic. Saints can emerge in such times.